the false offense to France

NEW YORK LETTER

A plate of poultry stuffed with foie gras, in a restaurant in New York, in October 2017.
A plate of poultry stuffed with foie gras, in a New York restaurant, in October 2017. ASTRID STAWIARZ / AFP

Suddenly, it was believed a new offense made to France, a protectionist whip: here the city of New York banned the end of October foie gras. On Thanksgiving night, instead of eating one of those unfortunate turkeys sacrificed in tribute to the first pioneers, we tasted a French foie gras, as if it were the last time. This was to learn that the ban will only come into force in two years and especially that there is not a gram of French foie gras exported to the United States. Zero. Our liver was a contraband product. The New York City Council has offended good taste, but not French exports.

The explanation is given by Ariane Daguin, a French woman established in the United States who markets the product under the brand name D'Artagnan: the eleven French slaughterhouses which had, at the end of the 1970s, an authorization granted by the American health authorities have lost it over the years, some trying to produce from neighboring Quebec – at lower cost and where the product is cooler.

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Loss of turnover

The foie gras in the United States is therefore an American product, which has only French name: the ducks are raised on two farms in the Hudson Valley, north of New York. A food for connoisseurs, less than half a percent of Americans tasted this product invented in Egypt's pharaohs. Two breeders embarked on the adventure, Michael Ginor, a native of Seattle who spent a few years in Israel, and Sergio Saravia, an immigrant from El Salvador. They co-founded Hudson Valley Foie Gras and La Belle, respectively.

The two men did not fray against the New York City Council who voted to ban their product. "If the ban comes into effect, we will lose $ 3 million in turnover and 70 jobs", worries Michael Ginor, while Sergio Saravia grieves. "It will be very difficult to survive with the ban, it is destructive for us and our 100 employees. "

The two men lament that despite their invitations, no member of the New York City Council has deigned to go to their farm. "The city council has never been interested in how the ducks are fed. Carlina Rivera (one of the promoters of the ban) never came, explaining that even if she came, she would not change her mind. It's just political, she wanted to make a name for herself, accuses Mr. Ginor. Mme Rivera told New York Times have wanted to tackle the "Most inhuman process" of the agri-food industry. Those who sell stuffed duck will be fined $ 2,000, but the one-year sentence has been dropped.

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